This Episode: Eagle’s Return.
Note: Most of the
construction and painting techniques shown here are
also suitable for building MPC's brand new 22"
course and holding, everything is fine!”
Round 2’s re-release of this classic 12 inch long Space: 1999 “Eagle” kit is a long awaited and welcome addition to the many new and vintage models in their ever spectacular line-up of exciting building opportunities! The kit has remained unchanged over the years since its original release in 1975 but is now finally released with a greatly improved decal sheet which will enhance and help to authenticate the look of the finished model beyond its basic paint job. But also, with some extra work using simple techniques suitable for the beginning airbrush user you can make the model look much better than you might think!
build all sub assemblies as per the instructions until
you have the parts as
down seams and trimming flash and mold parting lines
as necessary when cement
is dry. Leave off all other parts which will be
painted separately. Next, prime
and spray these parts with GLOSS off-white (basic
white with just the smallest
hint of gray). Using gloss paint is important to help
the decals stick, as
decals do not stick well to non glossy surfaces.
on it, John!”
the paint is fully dry, take an old business card or
similar stiff paper and
cut out various rectangular and square patterns
similar to those shown here...
When you are done the parts should
look as shown here...
are many other weathering techniques you can use but
this is the quickest,
easiest and is most effective in matching the way the
studio miniatures looked
as filmed for the show.
At this point, when the weathering is done you can decide if you want to paint the passenger pod with either the red stripes for a Rescue Eagle, Commissioner Simmonds’ orange VIP pod, or leave it white, as the model was seen throughout the bulk of the series. Apply all the decals to the model as shown in the instructions and box tray. Look over the model to make sure that all areas where decals are to be applied remain glossy. If you have some flat overspray due to the weathering processes, coat the area with a clear gloss and allow to fully dry before proceeding.
When you apply the decals, make sure you cut them apart carefully and trim as close to the actual printed image as possible. This is especially important for the black window sections on the nosecone and passenger pod so they snuggle properly into the corners. Be patient and do each decal one at a time.
When all the decals are applied and have dried overnight, you can spray the assemblies with dullcoat to seal the decals and give it a smooth appearance.
thing that makes the model look good is to make the
latticework cages look
hollow. Many people have tried various things like
cutting out the hollow
sections or hand painting these areas with a brush (I
always hated doing that)…
but there is actually a much, much easier and quicker
way…. Just use a pencil!
haven’t had this much fun since I burned
a regular HB pencil, sharpen it normally and then make
it absolutely needle
sharp by dragging and turning the point across a piece
of sand paper like this...
Carefully use the freshly sharpened point to outline the inner edges of the sunken areas of the cages then fill them in solid. You will need to sharpen the pencil very often, especially for doing the corners under the pipes. If you make a mistake, use the point of your Xacto knife to GENTLY (you don’t want to rub out the paint!) scrape off the unwanted marks. When your pencil work is all done, hit the area with more dullcoat to seal in the graphite and take the sheen off. Now that the main body is done, let’s finish the other parts.
the landing gear feet with flat medium gray, then
using your spray card, use
the same technique on the “toes” with the light gray
the main rear bells by the root with a set of
alligator clips (like those
helping hands tools) or sharpened clothes pins, spray
the bells (with your
airbrush or directly from the can) with a bright
silver paint like Krylon brand
“Chrome”. Well, honestly, the paint is a long way off
from looking like chrome despite
the electroplated lid, but is very bright and looks
very much like the turned
aluminum that the studio Eagle models’ engines were
made from. But this type of
paint goes gray if handled, even after it’s dry. So,
we need to seal the paint
to withstand handling.